Hartley Fell and Birkdale Common
More Articles in the Kirkby Stephen to Keld subsection
Nine Standards Rigg from Faraday Gill
Hartley Fell and Birkdale Common - Red Route Coast to Coast
Hartley Fell and Birkdale Common form a broad, high plateau of blanket bog on the Pennines between Kirkby Stephen and Keld. Here the Coast to Coast crosses from Cumbria into Yorkshire through an open landscape of peat, moss, shallow rills and deeply cut gullies. Water gathers across the plateau into a network of rills, becks and deeply cut gullies. On Birkdale Common these headwaters give rise to the River Swale, which gathers strength as it descends towards its meeting with Whitsundale Beck near High Bridge.
Hartley Fell rises south-east of Kirkby Stephen, with Birkdale Common continuing eastwards towards upper Swaledale and Keld. Together they form an extensive upland catchment where the ground can remain wet even after prolonged dry weather. On a clear day the openness brings long views across the surrounding fells; in poor weather the same lack of shelter can make this one of the more exposed sections of the Coast to Coast.
Hartley Fell lies within the North Pennines National Landscape, while Birkdale Common extends into the Yorkshire Dales National Park, itself designated an International Dark Sky Reserve. Across the two fells are several familiar Coast to Coast landmarks, including Dukerdale, Nine Standards Rigg, Lady Dike Head, Whitsun Dale and Ravenseat.
Hartley Fell
From Hartley Fell, the ground falls sharply over the lip of Dukerdale before rising again across the open moorland of Nateby Common. Beyond, High Pike Hill reaches 642m, its broad upland ridge filling the distant skyline. The deep cut of Dukerdale gives the view its drama, breaking the otherwise sweeping expanse of high Pennine moorland.
Nine Standards Rigg
Nine Standards Rigg rises to 650m, where nine immense stone cairns stand in a line across the exposed Pennine skyline. Visible from miles around, their dark silhouettes give this otherwise open plateau an unmistakable landmark. The summit lies within the North Pennines National Landscape, with the boundary of the Yorkshire Dales National Park less than a kilometre to the east.
Near Grains
Near Grains was once one of the most difficult stretches of bog on the Coast to Coast, where the path crosses the wet peat below White Mossy Hill. Stone paving now carries walkers across the worst ground. It is also an important junction: the Blue Route turns east into Whitsundale, while the Red Route continues across the open moor towards Ney Gill and Ravenseat. Clear waymarking now makes the choice much easier to follow.
Coast to Coast Near Grains
Across the fragile blanket bog beyond Nine Standards Rigg, the Coast to Coast divides into three seasonal routes designed to spread footfall and reduce erosion. From May to July walkers follow the Red Route towards Ney Gill and Ravenseat; from August to November the Blue Route crosses towards Whitsundale; and from December to April the Green Route takes lower ground towards the Keld road. The changing routes allow sections of this vulnerable peat landscape time to recover.
White Mossey Hill
Somewhere across the open moor between Nine Standards Rigg and White Mossy Hill, the Coast to Coast crosses the historic county boundary from Cumbria into North Yorkshire. With little on the ground to announce the change, the walker continues across the high blanket bog towards White Mossy Hill, whose broad summit reaches 659m. Here the immense Pennine plateau seems to stretch almost without interruption towards Yorkshire.
🌿 Insight – Blanket Bog
A Landscape Built by Water
Blanket bog develops where cool, wet conditions slow the decay of vegetation, allowing partially decomposed plant material to accumulate as peat. Over thousands of years this peat can spread across slopes and plateaux like a blanket, creating the soft, waterlogged ground characteristic of Hartley Fell and Birkdale Common. Pools, rills and deeply cut channels drain the surface, while sphagnum mosses and other moisture-loving plants help retain still more water.
A Fragile Landscape Underfoot
For the Coast to Coast walker, blanket bog can change dramatically with the weather. Firm-looking ground may conceal saturated peat, while repeated footfall can break the vegetation and create channels that encourage erosion. Stone paving and the seasonal routes around Nine Standards Rigg help concentrate or redirect walkers where necessary, protecting vulnerable areas while allowing damaged peat and vegetation time to recover.
Lady Dike Head
At Lady Dike Head the blanket bog is torn by a deep, broad gully, creating one of the most awkward crossings on Birkdale Common. Even in dry weather the steep peat sides and broken ground demand care in finding a safe way across. In wetter conditions, this deeply eroded channel reveals just how difficult and unforgiving the high Pennine plateau can become.
Coldbergh Edge
A small stone cairn marks Coldbergh Edge, where the broad wet ground of Lady Dike Head begins to fall away. Water drains south-west through Crooked Sike, while to the south-east Long Gill, Great Cogill and Little Cogill cut into the moor before feeding Whitsundale Beck. From here, the apparently level plateau reveals itself as a landscape shaped everywhere by flowing water.
Millstones
At Millstones the character of the ground changes abruptly. After the wet peat and deeply cut gullies of Lady Dike Head, firmer, better-drained Millstone Grit brings noticeably easier walking and a clearer path beneath the feet. A stone cairn marks the area and, visible from Lady Dike Head, provides a welcome landmark across the open moor.
Mould Gill
Beyond Millstones, the Coast to Coast crosses Mould Gill and skirts the sodden ground of Mouldgill Mea. Mea is an old northern dialect word for meadow or pasture, often associated in the North Pennines with wet, boggy upland ground. Here the name could hardly be more appropriate, as the walker leaves the firmer Millstone Grit and once again encounters the waterlogged moor.
Rowantree Gill
For almost half a mile, the Coast to Coast follows the upper reaches of Rowantree Gill, crossing and recrossing its shallow channel as it winds across the moor. Farther on, the gill turns west towards Birk Dale, cutting an increasingly deep and broad gully into the hillside. The path escapes the deepening ravine by a small wooden bridge before the channel opens out below.
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