Coast to Coast

Scandal Beck, Smardale, Coast to Coast

Scandal Beck from County Bridge

Looking along Scandal Beck towards Ravenstonedale

Scandal Beck, Smardale, Coast to Coast

A gill (or ghyll) is a deep, steep-sided valley, often wooded, while in Cumbria and the former county of Westmorland a beck is simply a stream. Together, the two names perfectly describe Scandal Beck, which flows through the dramatic limestone gorge of Smardale Gill some four miles west of Kirkby Stephen. The historic Smardale Packhorse Bridge—also known as County Bridge—carries Coast to Coast walkers safely across its waters on the journey between Crosby Garrett Fell and Smardale Fell.

Rising in the marshes of Tarn Mire beneath Wharton Fell, Scandal Beck flows west into Ravenstonedale before turning north through Smardale Gill to join the River Eden. Along its course it passes an extraordinary succession of natural and historic landmarks, including the Giants Graves, Smardale Gill National Nature Reserve, Witches Stride, several Romano-British settlements, prehistoric burial cairns, the fifteenth-century Smardale Hall, and the magnificent Smardale Gill Viaduct. Few streams on the Coast to Coast are accompanied by such a remarkable concentration of archaeology, history and wildlife.

Scandal Beck


From the Smardale Packhorse Bridge, Scandal Beck winds north through the wooded floor of Smardale Gill, drawing the eye towards the distant arches of Smardale Gill Viaduct. A delightful riverside path follows the eastern bank to Smardale Hall before returning along the route of the dismantled railway on the western side, crossing the viaduct to complete one of the most rewarding short walks in the Westmorland Dales.

Smardale Viaduct


The former South Durham & Lancashire Union Railway crosses Scandal Beck at a graceful angle as it enters Smardale Gill, now part of the Smardale Gill National Nature Reserve. Below, the beck winds through the wooded valley towards Witches Stride, while above, the magnificent nineteenth-century viaduct stands as a lasting reminder of the age of steam. The contrast between Victorian engineering and the timeless tranquillity of the valley makes this one of the most memorable views on the Coast to Coast.

Scandal Beck


From Smardale Bridge, Scandal Beck glides gently northwards towards the distant arches of Smardale Gill Viaduct, inviting the walker to pause and enjoy the valley’s tranquillity. Lush banks of ferns, wildflowers and riverside vegetation line the clear waters, softening the traces of the former limestone quarries that once occupied both sides of the beck.

Smardale Bridge


The elegant Smardale Bridge is a Grade II listed eighteenth-century packhorse bridge, built from locally quarried limestone to carry travellers across Scandal Beck long before modern roads reached the valley. Its single graceful arch and sturdy parapets have changed little over the centuries, making it both a practical crossing and one of the most enduring landmarks of Smardale Gill.

Severals Gill


Severals Gill descends from the springs below Begin Hill, following a shallow channel between Sandy Bank and the fellside before joining Scandal Beck at Smardale Bridge. After heavy rain the gill often spills beyond its banks, with water cascading down the footpath itself—a reminder that these ancient routes were shaped as much by the landscape as by the people who travelled them. Its source lies close to the Severals Historic Settlement, linking the little stream with a landscape that has been occupied for centuries.

Scandal Beck Ford, Tarn Lane


This deceptively gentle ford carries Tarn Lane across Scandal Beck on the road between Crosby Garrett and Smardale. Its curved concrete base and the flowing water can make it surprisingly difficult for drivers to judge the correct line, particularly in wet conditions. Vehicles occasionally slip from the crossing, and local farmers are no strangers to helping stranded motorists recover their cars from the beck.

Scandal Beck at Soulby


Leaving the limestone scenery of Smardale Gill, Scandal Beck crosses the ford on Tarn Lane before flowing north-east towards Soulby, where it has grown from a modest upland stream into a substantial river. Its journey began as little more than a trickle draining the marshes of Tarn Mire beneath Wharton Fell, gathering strength from tributaries including Lockholme Beck, Keld Sike and the outflow from Hag Mire. A short distance beyond Soulby, at Beckfoot, the beck finally surrenders its waters to the River Eden, completing a journey through one of the most historically and environmentally rich valleys on the Coast to Coast.

Hiking the Coast to Coast trail guide

Hiking the Coast to Coast is a digitally enhanced eBook designed to accompany you on your journey along the Coast to Coast path. Available on Apple Books for iPhone, iPad and Mac, the guide includes:
• Mapping with interactive features
• Step-by-step route directions
• Hundreds of colour photographs
• Route conditions in different weather
• Historical and cultural points of interest

Whether you’re planning your trip or already on the trail, it’s a practical and beautifully illustrated resource to carry with you.

Scandal Beck winding beneath Smardale Gill Viaduct in the Westmorland Dales Smardale Packhorse Bridge crossing Scandal Beck on the Coast to Coast Walk Scandal Beck ford on Tarn Lane between Crosby Garrett and Smardale The dismantled railway beside Scandal Beck in Smardale Gill Nature Reserve Scandal Beck near Soulby before joining the River Eden at Beckfoot Severals Gill descending from Begin Hill to join Scandal Beck at Smardale Bridge The Grade II listed Smardale Packhorse Bridge spanning Scandal Beck