Haystacks, Ennerdale - Coast to Coast
More Articles in the Ennerdale Bridge to Rosthwaite subsection
Innominate Tarn on Haystacks
Rugged fells and Wainwright’s resting place
Haystacks (597 m) rises steeply from the east of Scarth Gap, opposite Seat, forming a rugged and revered landmark in the Western Fells. Though modest in height, it is one of the most iconic peaks in the Lake District — famous not only for its rocky character and tarns, but also as the place where Alfred Wainwright’s ashes were scattered, beside the quiet waters of Innominate Tarn. This small, serene mountain lake lies high on the fell, surrounded by boggy hollows and broken crags.
Haystacks’ north face is sheer, while its southern flanks above Ennerdale and Black Sail are far too steep for a safe ascent. The main Coast to Coast route approaches from the east, where two paths offer relatively straightforward access. The more popular climbs from Honister or Brandreth lead first to the old Dubs Quarry and then past Little Round How, skirting Green Crag and Blackbeck Tarn. A second, less-travelled path ascends from the summit of Seavy Knott, following a fence line. Though not marked on OS maps, it is easily found and walked.
Haystacks with Green Crag
From the Coast to Coast path between Fleetwith Pike and Grey Knotts, Haystacks presents a distinctive profile across the head of the Warnscale valley. To its east, Green Crag forms the back wall of the U-shaped glacial valley, while Great Round How sits in the saddle between Haystacks and Grey Knotts. The craggy ridge and steep flanks of Haystacks hint at the rugged, broken terrain that awaits on its summit.
Haystacks, High Crag, High Stile
From the lower slopes of Grey Knotts, Haystacks (597 m) is seen facing Gamlin End, the steep south-east face of High Crag (744 m). Just beyond rises High Stile (806 m), forming the western shoulder of the ridge. Across the valley to the south stands Pillar (892 m), one of the highest fells overlooking Ennerdale. To the north, a glimpse of Buttermere appears beneath the slopes of High Stile, completing the layered landscape.
Haystacks and High Stile Ridge
This view from Green Gable looks east along the main stretch of Ennerdale Valley, capturing the rugged northern skyline of Haystacks, Gamlin End, High Crag, and High Stile. Opposite, on the southern side of the valley, lie the broken slopes of Boat How Crags, forming part of the wilder flank beneath Pillar.
Blackbeck Tarn Among the Crags
Blackbeck Tarn is the largest of Haystacks’ three mountain tarns, lying just south of Green Crag on the main path to the summit. The trail passes between the tarn and the crag, offering a fine view of its still waters set among rocky ground. At its narrow north-west end, the tarn feeds Black Beck, a steep stream that descends sharply to Warnscale Beck, eventually flowing onward to Buttermere
Haystacks Fence Path and Posts
The fence path along Haystacks’ southern boundary offers fine views across the length of Ennerdale Valley, particularly to the dramatic southern skyline. From here, the eye is drawn to Pillar and its surrounding peaks — a rugged wall of mountain rising steeply above the valley floor.
Gable Twins and Liza Sources
From the fence path on Haystacks, there is a truly striking view back to Great Gable and Green Gable, with the source channels of the River Liza clearly visible as they converge from either flank of Great Gable. Tongue Beck and Tongue — descending from Green Gable — are also seen with rare clarity, tracing the high ground that feeds Ennerdale’s headwaters.
Buttermere View Of Haystacks
The north face of Haystacks is steep and imposing, best appreciated from below in Buttermere. Together with Striddle Crag to the east and Green Crag at the centre, Haystacks forms the northern wall of a classic glacial U-valley — a dramatic example of the sculpting power of ice across the Lakeland fells.
Innominate Tarn on Haystacks
Innominate Tarn lies at around 520 m on the flanks of Haystacks, set in a rocky hollow with a deeply indented shoreline. In spring and summer, its margins are fringed with water grasses, adding colour and contrast to the grey stone. Scattered islets enhance the tarn’s quiet charm, offering varied views from every angle. Once known as Loaf Tarn, this peaceful spot is now best remembered as the final resting place of Alfred Wainwright.
Alfred Wainwright on Haystacks, 1990
Well-known to Lakeland mountain walker's is the famous quote by Alfred Wainwright in his book "memoirs of a Fellwalker", 1990.
"All I ask for, at the end, is a last long resting place by the side of Innominate Tarn, on Haystacks, where the water gently laps the gravelly shore and the heather blooms and Pillar and Gable keep unfailing watch.
A quiet place, a lonely place. I shall go to it, for the last time, and be carried: someone who knew me in life will take me and empty me out of a little box and leave me there alone.
And if you, dear reader, should get a bit of grit in your boot as you are crossing Haystacks in the years to come, please treat it with respect. It might be me."
Hiking the Coast to Coast trail guide
Hiking the Coast to Coast is a digitally enhanced eBook designed to accompany you on your journey along the Coast to Coast path. Available on Apple Books for iPhone, iPad and Mac, the guide includes:
• Mapping with interactive features
• Step-by-step route directions
• Hundreds of colour photographs
• Route conditions in different weather
• Historical and cultural points of interest
Whether you’re planning your trip or already on the trail, it’s a practical and beautifully illustrated resource to carry with you.
