Whitehaven Marina Coastal Detour
More Articles in the St Bees to Ennerdale Bridge subsection
Lime Tongue Pier, Whitehaven. The tall structure in the centre of the image is The Crows Nest, a 40m high investment by the Millennium Commission, having coloured lights that vary according to wind intensity.
Whitehaven Marina, Coastal Detour from the Coast to Coast Path
Whitehaven Marina lies just north of the Coast to Coast route and makes an excellent short detour from North Head. Though not on the official trail, it is clearly visible from the clifftops and shares close historical ties with features along the path, including shipwrecks, coal shipping, and coastal lighthouses. The marina developed from the early 17th-century Irish coal trade, with the Old Quay built by Sir Christopher Lowther in 1634—one of England’s oldest surviving coal wharves. The harbour grew significantly over the following centuries, with major additions including the North Pier, West Pier, and Queen’s Dock. Today, three lighthouses stand within the marina complex, and St Bees Lighthouse is clearly observed from Whitehaven's Piers. Whitehaven is also notable as the only English town attacked by American forces, when John Paul Jones led a bold naval raid here in 1778. Three of the original cannons used in its defence are still displayed on the West Pier.
Whitehaven Lowther Marina
The enclosed waters of Lowther Marina occupy Whitehaven’s former Inner Harbour, where coal ships and trading vessels once crowded the quays. Today the same sheltered basin is filled with yachts and leisure craft, with the lock gates connecting it to the outer harbour beyond. Together with Queen’s Marina and West Strand Marina, it forms the modern waterfront — a remarkable transformation from one of Britain’s busiest Georgian coal ports to the quiet forest of masts seen here today.
Old Quay Watchtower
Standing beside the Old Quay, the weathered Watchtower recalls the days when Whitehaven harbour was crowded with coal ships and trading vessels. The adjoining Watch House dates from 1764, while a plaque on the tower records its construction around 1730 to oversee maritime traffic. Beside it, the Old Quay reaches into the harbour — built in the 1630s during Whitehaven’s first great expansion as a coal port. Even the brown sundial survives on the tower wall, quietly measuring the hours beside a harbour once governed by tides, ships and sail.
Old New Quay - Cadets Pier
Built in 1741 and extended in 1767, the Old New Quay — now known as Cadets Pier — reaches into a harbour already expanding rapidly with Whitehaven’s growing maritime trade. A lighthouse once stood here, first lit in 1742, while the surviving guard house recalls the pier’s working past. Today, Stephen Broadbent’s The Glass in the Boat Seat brings a different story to the quay, incorporating words by local schoolchildren and commemorating the Rocket Brigade that once launched life-saving equipment towards ships in distress. The pier has changed its purpose, but it still tells the story of lives shaped by the sea.
West Pier Lighthouse
The white tower of West Pier Lighthouse has stood at the harbour entrance since 1838, its light guiding vessels across the Solway and into Whitehaven. Rising 14 metres above the pier, it has a range of about eight nautical miles. The pier itself is much older, extended in 1739 as Whitehaven’s coal trade brought ever larger and more heavily laden ships into the port. Today the lighthouse looks almost ornamental against the sea and sky, but for generations its light marked the final approach to one of Britain’s great working harbours.
North Pier Lighthouse
Completed in 1841, North Pier Lighthouse has a very different character from the white tower across the harbour. Its low, truncated stone tower carries a tall mast with two fixed red navigation lights, visible for up to nine nautical miles. Seen here from West Pier, it stands against the open waters of the Solway Firth, with the hills of Dumfries and Galloway forming a distant northern horizon. Harbour, sea and Scottish hills seem to fall into layers — a small navigation light marking the boundary between Whitehaven and the wider Solway beyond.
The Candlestick
High above Whitehaven Harbour, the unmistakable Candlestick rises from the site of Wellington Pit, its elaborate chimney designed as part of the mine’s ventilation system. The colliery buildings were given an extraordinary castle-like appearance, and the chimney is traditionally said to have been modelled on a candlestick belonging to the Lowther family. Wellington Pit closed in 1932, leaving the Candlestick and nearby white crenellated lodge as striking survivors. Seen above the modern marina, it is a powerful reminder that beneath this peaceful coastline miners once worked far out under the Irish Sea.
Whitehaven Battery
The surviving guns on West Pier recall a time when Whitehaven’s crowded harbour needed protection from attack from the sea. In the eighteenth century the port was enormously important, its quays busy with coal ships and merchant vessels trading far beyond the Cumbrian coast. These cannon therefore belonged to a working harbour defence, not a ceremonial display. Their most extraordinary moment came on a dark April night in 1778 — when an enemy force actually landed at Whitehaven and attempted to silence its guns.
⚓ Insight - History
The Night America Attacked Whitehaven
In the darkness before dawn on 23 April 1778, two small boats carrying about thirty men approached Whitehaven from the American warship Ranger. Their commander was John Paul Jones, one of the most celebrated naval officers of the American War of Independence — and a man who knew this coast remarkably well.
Born in Scotland, Jones had begun his seafaring career as a boy and had sailed from Whitehaven during his early years at sea. He therefore knew both the harbour and its importance. By the 1770s Whitehaven had become one of Britain’s great coal ports, its quays crowded with merchant vessels that represented a tempting target.
Jones’s plan was audacious. His men would land under cover of darkness, disable the harbour guns and set fire to the shipping. With hundreds of vessels sometimes packed closely together, flames spreading from ship to ship could have devastated the harbour and perhaps much of the waterfront.
But the operation was already beginning to go wrong. Contrary winds delayed Ranger’s arrival, and by the time the boats reached Whitehaven daylight was approaching.
Jones led a party towards the harbour defences, where his men spiked several cannon, hammering metal into their touch holes so they could not easily be fired. Elsewhere, another party attempted to ignite vessels in the harbour.
The fires failed to spread as intended. The alarm was raised, townspeople hurried towards the waterfront and the flames were extinguished before they could engulf the tightly packed shipping. Faced with an increasingly alert town, Jones and his men withdrew to their boats and returned to Ranger.
Materially, the raid achieved little. Psychologically, however, it was extraordinary. An enemy force had landed on British soil, disabled coastal guns and attempted to burn one of the country’s important ports. The American War of Independence, fought thousands of miles away across the Atlantic, had suddenly arrived in Whitehaven.
The town reacted quickly. Whitehaven’s defences were strengthened, and Historic England records that by June 1778 six strong batteries protected the harbour.
More than two centuries later, the guns beside Whitehaven harbour give little sense of the alarm of that April morning. Yet for a few hours before dawn, this quiet Cumbrian waterfront became part of the American Revolution.
At a Glance
Date: 23 April 1778
Commander: John Paul Jones
Ship: Ranger
Force ashore: About 30 men
Objective: Disable the guns and burn shipping
Action: Cannon spiked and ships targeted
Outcome: Fires extinguished; raiders withdrew
Aftermath: Whitehaven strengthened its harbour defences
The Guns of Whtehaven
These guns evoke the harbour defences that John Paul Jones and his men came ashore to disable before dawn on 23 April 1778. Jones knew Whitehaven well and understood the danger the batteries posed to his escape. While part of his force attempted to set fire to the tightly packed ships in the harbour, he led men against the defences, hammering spikes into the cannon vents to put the guns out of action. The raid achieved far less destruction than intended — but for a few extraordinary hours, the American War of Independence had reached the Cumbrian coast.
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